Jake Dean

“I came across a crab while surfing an empty beach break one afternoon. It was a real big one. ‘Howdy, partner,’ he said as I waited for a wave. ‘G’day,’ I said, in my friendliest voice. I didn’t want any trouble. …”

When Lewy Finnegan became gravely ill in 2016, doctors delivered a startling diagnosis. Now, after at one point fearing he might die, the professional bodyboarder has regained his strength – both physically and mentally.