dinner December 19, 2020

Christmas pork

This year has left me longing to live a quieter, simpler life. One where I tread more gently upon the earth. So for Christmas, I’m looking for an old-fashioned favourite. This variation of a roasted pork loin fits the bill nicely. First,...

side dish December 21, 2019

Vegan Christmas recipes

Christmas doesn’t have to be about turkey, ham and roast pork. One of the things I have learnt living in a vegetarian household for the past three years is that Christmas is about celebration, and that the meat-free dishes need to be as festive...

baking November 16, 2019

Mince pies and Fergus Henderson’s Eccles cakes

A little more than a month ago, on the other side of the world, the inimitable St. JOHN restaurant celebrated its 25th anniversary. There are few restaurants that have had their logo copied more or their influence reach further than London’s St....

dessert February 3, 2018

Rolled pavlova

I thought this was a bit of a folly at first. Pavlova is Australian royalty, sitting there perfectly crisp, crowned with fruit. Why would you interfere? Why would you flatten and roll it? I presume this recipe came from a time when...

dinner December 19, 2015

Glazed Christmas ham and pickled cherries

I think of cherries as a festive fruit – because of when they’re in season and what they cost. They’re also a fruit that works well with meat: duck or ham, in particular. For this recipe, I use a sweet variety of cherry but I pickle it in...

dinner December 18, 2021

Pork shoulder and pineapple

Debate rages around whether pineapple should be a pizza topping. The idea of this tropical fruit paired with ham makes some people recoil in horror. Yet pork and pineapple seem to have a long and proud association. Think sweet and sour pork in...

baking November 20, 2021

Shortbread

I have been making shortbread as a Christmas gift for many years now. I have no recollection of where this particular recipe came from, but I have always enjoyed the fact it is not too sweet and has a lovely firm crunch to the biscuit. On many...

dinner July 2, 2022

Cappelletti in brodo

“The Tortellini in Brodo that first night was a dish they would talk about for years. Oh, how it nourished them and pleased them, gave them resilience for all the unexpected moments to come,” writes my friend Sarah Winman in her book...

dinner August 9, 2014

Gravlax

The most fascinating thing about gravlax, other than the finished dish, is the history. It’s a Nordic method of preserving fish and the word gravlax comes from the Scandinavian word grav, which means grave. Lax simply means...

dinner December 12, 2020

Hot-smoked ocean trout with green salad

As the year draws to its inevitable close, my thoughts turn to Christmas. For me it will be a more muted celebration, as this year we suffered loss on so many levels that we would never have thought possible before 2020. It will be a chance for...

side dish November 24, 2018

Fennel tortas and lemon pot de crème

Many of us have eaten them. Either in Spain, or when we have lashed out and bought a packet of Inés Rosales tortas, individually wrapped in their instantly recognisable white and blue paper. There is something about tradition and the sense of...