dinner

dinner September 18, 2021

Spring greens and shredded lamb shoulder

Just like the sunlight streaming through my windows, the fresh flush of spring greens are streaming into greengrocers and farmers’ markets across the land. Now is the start of the glorious run of asparagus, peas, both shelling and in pods, and broad...

dinner July 31, 2021

Oyster mushrooms and buckwheat porridge with miso, seaweed and truffle

Black truffles, or Tuber melanosporum , are kicking. The first frosts have hit our truffle-producing regions, promoting maturity in the subterranean fungi. While prices are intimidating – per kilogram they can cost many thousands of dollars –...

dinner July 24, 2021

Mud crab with curry leaf butter

Before you dismiss the idea of cooking crab because you think it’s too hard, please give me a moment to persuade you that it’s not. I think most people will agree the flesh from a crab is delicious. It’s succulent, sweet and slightly salty, with an...

dinner July 10, 2021

Radicchio, walnut tarator, blueberries and roasted blood sausage

The debate over combining fruit with savoury dishes can become almost as passionate as that concerning religion. It’s all in or not at all. Like pineapple on pizza – the idea can be met with disgust or delight in equal measure. But – shock, horror...

dinner June 26, 2021

Roasted kohlrabi with lamb and prune sauce, and raw kohlrabi with macadamia cream

Having fled the latest Melbourne lockdown, I am lucky enough to be in a place where seasonality is less of an issue when buying fresh produce. What is readily available only during spring in the southern climes is now ripe for the picking in the...

dinner June 12, 2021

Chou farci (stuffed cabbage)

Cabbage is hardly the sexiest ingredient. But I am finding real joy in celebrating the staples. The likes of potatoes and cabbages all deserve their time to shine and take centrestage for even a fleeting moment. Like anything, the key is in the...

dinner June 5, 2021

Pumpkin stuffed with farro, chestnut and mushrooms

Pumpkins are everywhere in my life at the moment. The restaurant is decorated with an array of beautiful specimens, the racks on the verandah are full of them and there are crates of little ones stacked neatly out of the weather. As with so many...

food May 29, 2021

Hand-rolled semolina pasta with scallop blanquette

Making pasta is commonly associated with machinery and complex home set-ups, but it is possible to make pasta purely by hand. Small rolling pins or specific hand-shaping tools will allow for the myriad shapes and styles to add to your repertoire...

food March 27, 2021

Saddle of lamb

Easter soon will be upon us, and with it a four-day break whose meaning seems to have changed for many as life becomes more secular. The traditional foods we eat at Easter have also changed as an increasing number of people eschew the consumption of...

dinner March 20, 2021

Crayfish noodles

It may seem ludicrous to serve an entire crayfish tail for a home meal given the history of the premium price. But we are in strange times that have unintended benefits for consumers. Crayfish, along with several other products, have been...

food March 13, 2021

Roasted beetroot with miso, sesame seeds and silken tofu

It’s been a crazy cold summer here in central Victoria. Sometimes late in the afternoon, the temperature drops into single figures. So my standard batch of easy after-work summer dinner dishes have seemed a little less appropriate. And now that...