Goose schnitzel Holstein
Crumbing food and then frying it in oil with foaming butter never gets old. It’s a kind of sport in Britain, where the scope of what can be fried has been well explored. Often the frying is purely to form a crispy crust that tastes of nothing more than the cooking medium, but there is room to finesse the process.
For moments when motivation is low, a single pan for dinner becomes my maximum capability. At such points I reach for the classic schnitzel. Schnitzel has many iterations, the most common in Australia being the parmigiana, or parmy. But for the ultimate schnitzel, I look to Germany/Austria and the retro Holstein. Developed, I’m sure, for some aristocrat in times not too distant, the Holstein is basically a schnitzel with egg, anchovy and capers that runs extremely close to classic French fish preparations such as Grenobloise.
I love this schnitzel to be goose but it can work with duck, for both the meat and the eggs. Duck or goose eggs are much richer in flavour than those from a chicken, which is important because the eggs form the basis of the sauce. The same goes for the breast meat, and using duck or goose also means you can cook the slices to medium or medium rare to retain the juices.
Much like serving mustard with steak, horseradish really picks up the high points of the meat. All condiments are welcome but none are superior to fresh horseradish on fried schnitzel.
Time: 40 minutes preparation + 20 minutes cooking
- 300g goose breast (or 2 breasts)
- 4 eggs (goose or duck, if possible)
- 30ml milk
- 30g plain flour
- salt and pepper
- 200g breadcrumbs, homemade or panko
- 200ml olive oil
- 120g butter
- 30g capers
- 10 good-quality anchovy fillets
- 1 shallot
- 3 sorrel leaves
- 30g fresh horseradish, grated
- 1 lemon
- Slice the breast into three long, diagonal slices. Alternatively, you could also butterfly each breast to make individual schnitzels, but keep in mind the size of your pan.
- Place the breast slices between two sheets of greaseproof paper and pound slightly flatter using a meat tenderiser. When doing this, keep some structural integrity and be sure not to completely ruin the meat by giving it too much stick.
- In a bowl, whisk two of the eggs with the milk and set aside.
- Generously season the flour with salt and pepper, then set aside in a shallow bowl.
- Tip the breadcrumbs into another bowl so that you now have a crumbing station.
- One at a time, coat the meat slices in the flour, then the egg batter, before placing them in the breadcrumbs. Push the breadcrumbs into the slices to ensure they are thoroughly covered. (Tip: keep one hand clean to operate taps to wash your hands.)
- Pour the oil into a large heavy-based pan and place it over a high heat. When the oil has reached about 160 degrees, add the schnitzel and fry for 30 seconds before adding a knob of the butter. Keep agitating the pan so the butter foams. Fry like this for two minutes and then flip the schnitzel over. Cook on the other side for two minutes, then remove and place onto absorbent paper on a plate.
- Repeat with the other pieces until all are golden brown.
- Turn the heat down on the pan, then crack in the other two eggs. I use the same pan as the schnitzel as it now contains about 50 per cent butter. Do cook these eggs in a separate pan if the oil starts to get too dark. Fry the eggs very gently until all of the white is set and the yolk is warm.
- Serve the schnitzel on two plates and top with the egg. Sprinkle over the capers, then place five anchovy fillets on each. Shred the shallot and sorrel and scatter over the top, then finish the plate with freshly grated horseradish. Serve with a lemon cheek.
This article was first published in the print edition of The Saturday Paper on October 29, 2022 as "Until golden goose".
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