dinner July 9, 2022

Mussels in a tamarind broth

Having a few mussel dishes up your sleeve is a very handy thing. They are relatively cheap and easy to source, you can cook them faster than it takes to decide on takeaway and they play agreeably with so many flavours. Go buttery with lots of garlic...

dinner July 2, 2022

Cappelletti in brodo

“The Tortellini in Brodo that first night was a dish they would talk about for years. Oh, how it nourished them and pleased them, gave them resilience for all the unexpected moments to come,” writes my friend Sarah Winman in her book Still Life ,...

dinner June 25, 2022

Zampone pig trotters

These arctic cold blasts lead me to comfort foods and meats such as shanks and osso buco cooked on the bone. At the end of every shank is a hoof, but not all hooves can be prepared in such a way – the pig in particular lends itself well to long...

dinner June 18, 2022


One of the things we have learnt in these times of Covid is that lasagne, despite its Italian origins, seems to have made its way into the Australian psyche, becoming a strong contender for a spot as one of our national dishes. We have adopted and...

dinner June 11, 2022

Chicken Kiev

There is so much dispute about where the chicken Kiev comes from. The French claim it as theirs, but so do the Russians, of course. The Americans have a say, suggesting immigrant Russians served it in their restaurants to lure in homesick countrymen...

dinner May 21, 2022

Pumpkin and ricotta crespelle

I’m a big fan of how traditional recipes get around in Europe. While most of us think of crepes as a French thing and pasta as an Italian thing, you will often find pasta on a French cafe menu and crepes on Italian menus. Crepes, or the Italian...

side dish May 14, 2022

Sweet and sour sweetbreads

In a stroke of pure marketing genius for the meat industry, someone developed the name “sweetbreads” to apply to what would otherwise stay in the drab collective of offal/organ meat. The terms “organ meat” or “offal” rarely get a positive response...

dinner April 9, 2022

Steak tartare and burgers

mince verb verb: mince; 3rd person present: minces; past tense: minced; past participle: minced; gerund or present participle: mincing 1. cut up or grind (food, especially meat) into very small pieces, typically in a machine with revolving blades. 2...

dinner March 5, 2022

Green pie

There is something very satisfying about eating pie in any of its various forms. It’s comforting, usually easy to eat, and often, but not always, better with some saucy bit on the side. The variations are endless; what you put in, the type of pastry...

dinner January 29, 2022

Roast chicken with fennel gratin

The simple truths behind the best roast chicken.

dinner January 29, 2022

Golden chicken soup (calendula fever)

I have lately spent a lot of my time in cafes pushing single viola flowers off poached eggs and choking on dried petals in my smoothies. The trend that started with nasturtium flowers has run deep into anything non-toxic. Flowers in food – or rather...