recipe

Photographed remotely by Earl Carter
Photographed remotely by Earl Carter
Photographed remotely by Earl Carter
Photographed remotely by Earl Carter Photographed remotely by Earl Carter
Photographed remotely by Earl Carter
Credit: Photographed remotely by Earl Carter

Deep-fried snapper wings with red curry sauce

O Tama Carey is the owner of Lankan Filling Station. Her first cookbook is Lanka Food. She is a food editor of The Saturday Paper.

Credit: Photographed remotely by Earl Carter

I am all too aware that this recipe has the potential to be dismissed. Not only does it use a fiddly, lesser-known cut of fish, but you must also deal with the idea of deep-frying at home. If you are willing to try it, however, the rewards will be great.

Let’s start with what a fish wing is, as we all know that fish don’t really fly. The wing is a triangular-ish cut of fish, taken from behind the head, that includes the pectoral fin. You cut through this and then follow it around to release it from the gills. This forms one edge, the rest of the wing includes the side, and sometimes bottom, fin and the flesh that lies beneath. If you follow this cut so it encompasses both sides of the fish, then it’s known as the collar. Don’t worry too much about the technicalities, you just need to sweet talk your fish monger.

I think you can split people into those happiest with a knife and fork and others who relish eating with their hands and who aren’t afraid to make an effort with tricky bits. Fish wings have it all: fattiness, texture and delight. And as with all meats and seafoods, cooking on the bone provides protection for the delicate flesh, so you can do things like deep fry it to get a beautiful crust yet still have an unctuous bite in the middle.

Fish come in many sizes, as do their wings. I have chosen snapper here as there is usually a lot about and you can generally find manageable-sized wings to start you off. They have a nice amount of fat on them, and their sweet flesh will stand up nicely to the frying and spicy sauce you are going to coat them with.

As for deep frying at home, I know this can seem overwhelming and is one of the more dangerous ways to cook, but who doesn’t love a well-fried morsel, crisp yet not oily? For this recipe we are going to coat the wings in besan, or gram flour, which is made from chickpeas. This flour creates a lovely crisp crust with a slightly nutty flavour.

The sauce is the start of a simple Sri Lankan red curry. It has all the base ingredients you expect to find using a red curry powder full of sweet spices and chilli, seasoned with tamarind and jaggery. You end up with a rich, sweet-and-sour sauce laden with chilli. Pour this over the hot, fried wings and see the besan crust soak in the sauce.

Curry leaves are easy to come across nowadays, but you will need to find a Sri Lankan grocer to buy the jaggery, which is simply the Sri Lankan version of palm sugar. You can use palm sugar instead, but the Lankan variety has a distinct molasses flavour, a hint of smokiness and is usually far less sweet than its Thai counterpart. While you are at the grocer’s, you should be able to find a red or Jaffna curry powder to use. And, if you are feeling clever, you might also find a nice Sri Lankan cookbook to make your own.

Ingredients

Serves 2 as part of a main meal

Time: 40 minutes preparation and cooking

  • 1 tbsp coconut oil
  • 3 sprigs curry leaves, picked
  • ½ medium red onion, finely diced
  • ½-1 long red chilli, finely chopped
  • 2 medium cloves garlic, finely chopped
  • 2 tsp finely chopped ginger
  • 1 tsp finely chopped lemongrass
  • salt flakes and black pepper
  • 1 tbsp Sri Lankan red curry powder
  • 40g jaggery, chopped
  • 2 ripe roma tomatoes, in a small dice
  • 1 tsp tamarind concentrate
  • vegetable oil for deep frying
  • 6 snapper wings
  • 60g besan flour
  • picked coriander for garnish and lime cheeks for serving
Method
  1. Heat the coconut oil in a wide-based frypan over a medium heat and allow it to warm. Once it’s hot, add in the curry leaves (they may spit at you a little but don’t be alarmed), fry for a moment or so and then follow with the onions, chilli, garlic, ginger and lemongrass. Season well and cook, stirring occasionally until the onions are nicely cooked, they should be starting to look a little crisp (four to five minutes).
  2. Add the curry powder and stir well for a few minutes (it will soon start catching at the base). At this stage add in the jaggery, keep stirring and allow the jaggery to melt and then caramelise (one to two minutes). By this stage the mix will be looking quite crunchy.
  3. Add in the tomatoes, stir well and turn the heat back down a little. Let it simmer gently until the tomatoes have broken down (about four minutes).
  4. At this stage the sauce will be paste-like. Add 200 millilitres of water and the tamarind concentrate and turn the heat to high. Let the sauce come to a boil and simmer for a minute or so. Have a taste for seasoning – the sauce should be hot, a little sticky, sweet and sour. Once you are happy, set aside.
  5. Have your oil heating in a wok or wide-based saucepan and heat to 170°C.
  6. Season your wings with salt and then completely cover them with the besan flour. Gently lower them into the oil and deep fry until they turn a deep golden brown (four to five minutes). You want to make sure the wings are completely immersed, so you may need to do this in two batches, give them a jiggle and turn them a few times.
  7. Once cooked, remove the wings onto a cake rack and heat the sauce to a simmer.
  8. Place your fish wings onto a large serving plate and then spoon the sauce over the top. Garnish with a nice amount of coriander and serve with the lime.

This article was first published in the print edition of The Saturday Paper on April 16, 2022 as "Frying high".

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O Tama Carey is the owner of Lankan Filling Station. Her first cookbook is Lanka Food. She is a food editor of The Saturday Paper.