food

dinner July 24, 2021

Mud crab with curry leaf butter

Before you dismiss the idea of cooking crab because you think it’s too hard, please give me a moment to persuade you that it’s not. I think most people will agree the flesh from a crab is delicious. It’s succulent, sweet and slightly salty, with an...

entree July 17, 2021

Duck breasts stuffed with prunes

As the monotony of coronavirus seems to put life on repeat, there are many things we are all missing. For me, and my friends and customers, the travel question remains scratchy. Months ago it was a question of when; now we wonder about the prospect...

dinner July 10, 2021

Radicchio, walnut tarator, blueberries and roasted blood sausage

The debate over combining fruit with savoury dishes can become almost as passionate as that concerning religion. It’s all in or not at all. Like pineapple on pizza – the idea can be met with disgust or delight in equal measure. But – shock, horror...

side dish July 3, 2021

Potato cakes

Even the most ordinary of foods seem to have lost some of their magic in recent times. As with the regular summertime lament that tomatoes don’t taste like they used to, when was the last time you had a really good potato cake? Nowadays potato cakes...

dinner June 26, 2021

Roasted kohlrabi with lamb and prune sauce, and raw kohlrabi with macadamia cream

Having fled the latest Melbourne lockdown, I am lucky enough to be in a place where seasonality is less of an issue when buying fresh produce. What is readily available only during spring in the southern climes is now ripe for the picking in the...

dessert June 19, 2021

Bee stings

A bee sting cake is a staple of the German cake stand. It is usually baked in a cake tin and then split and filled with a vanilla pastry cream. It’s not a cake, though; it’s actually a bread. In my version here I like to make oversized individual...

dinner June 12, 2021

Chou farci (stuffed cabbage)

Cabbage is hardly the sexiest ingredient. But I am finding real joy in celebrating the staples. The likes of potatoes and cabbages all deserve their time to shine and take centrestage for even a fleeting moment. Like anything, the key is in the...

dinner June 5, 2021

Pumpkin stuffed with farro, chestnut and mushrooms

Pumpkins are everywhere in my life at the moment. The restaurant is decorated with an array of beautiful specimens, the racks on the verandah are full of them and there are crates of little ones stacked neatly out of the weather. As with so many...

food May 29, 2021

Hand-rolled semolina pasta with scallop blanquette

Making pasta is commonly associated with machinery and complex home set-ups, but it is possible to make pasta purely by hand. Small rolling pins or specific hand-shaping tools will allow for the myriad shapes and styles to add to your repertoire...

food May 22, 2021

Quince jelly

Beauty is in the eye of the beholder, but all eyes see beauty differently. For the past few years I have had the great pleasure of working with Earl Carter, the man whose vision is behind The Saturday Paper ’s food page photographs. Our shoot days...

food May 15, 2021

Pot-au-feu/ bollito misto

Pot-au-feu in France, bollito misto in Italy. This “peasant” hotpot of cheaper cuts is an absolute staple in many European households. It’s a bit of a contradiction of a dish, as at no point in the process does it show any semblance of the absolute...