food

food

food November 9, 2019

Licorice molasses cake with candied ginger

Learning to cook with less sugar is something of a contradiction to this recipe. By subbing out refined sugars with greater quantities of the same product in a more raw form, any potential benefits are lost. However, this recipe hinges on licorice...

food November 2, 2019

Simplified coulibiac

It seems as though cooks just can’t stop fiddling with historical dishes. Here is a prime example. Coulibiac is a very fancy and labour-intensive fish pie from Russia. So fancy, in fact, that Escoffier made it popular in France in the late 19th...

food October 26, 2019

Broad bean falafel with tahini dressing and salad

Falafel have been a mystery to me for most of my adult life. The fluffy little fried balls of goodness were something I purchased for such a long time without ever querying how they were produced. The most common version of falafel uses dried...

food October 19, 2019

Chicken shop chicken

It’s time to start thinking about the “entertaining” season. As the year starts to wind up, there are parties, Christmas, New Year’s celebrations and holidays in the not-too-distant future. For some home cooks, feeding people en masse can be...

food October 12, 2019

Padrón peppers with tomato bread and aioli

Since beginning to write this column I have gone to great lengths to ensure the dishes featured showcase ingredients that are in peak season. Given our environmental forecast of warming conditions, and in the name of adaptability, I give you an...

food October 5, 2019

Stuffed rainbow trout with dill and broad bean pilaf

The science of taste is complex. We take for granted the extraordinary job our tongue does. Its ability to identify sweet, sour, salty, bitter and umami tastes and transmit these to the gustatory cortex for evaluation is not something many of us...

food September 28, 2019

Oyster hotpot

During the early stages of colonisation in Australia and the United States, oysters were viewed as more than just an appetiser – they were one of the most readily available sources of protein for those situated near the ocean or saltwater estuaries...

food September 21, 2019

Jam doughnuts

I seem to have had a long affinity with strawberry jam. As a child, I had a terrible speech impediment – not only was I late to speaking but, when I did start, most of my words were unintelligible at worst and laughable at best. I am still reminded...

food September 14, 2019

Pipis with XO sauce

Sometimes things fit together perfectly. Pipis are my favourite ingredient and collecting them is my favourite pastime. Every time I head back to my family home on the south-west coast of Victoria I make time to “shuffle” for pipis. On an outgoing...

food September 7, 2019

Stuffed leeks

As the first glimmers of spring arrive in pockets of Victoria, I still have a long wait before I can enjoy the “classic” spring vegetables. Our little farm is situated atop a hill and, while the soil is fabulous and the water plentiful, being more...

food August 31, 2019

Pearled barley and freekeh with roasted Jerusalem artichokes and ricotta

Jerusalem artichokes are certainly not the most glamorous of vegetables. This tuber sits way down the pecking order, along with the turnip, mostly as a result of a particular side effect from its consumption. There is absolutely no denying Jerusalem...