food

dessert May 28, 2022

Apple fritole with calvados crème anglaise

Naming dishes can be fraught with danger, especially when you are making up a recipe that hasn’t existed before and is a culmination of techniques and flavours picked from here and there. Calling these little beauties doughnuts feels wrong even...

dinner May 21, 2022

Pumpkin and ricotta crespelle

I’m a big fan of how traditional recipes get around in Europe. While most of us think of crepes as a French thing and pasta as an Italian thing, you will often find pasta on a French cafe menu and crepes on Italian menus. Crepes, or the Italian...

side dish May 14, 2022

Sweet and sour sweetbreads

In a stroke of pure marketing genius for the meat industry, someone developed the name “sweetbreads” to apply to what would otherwise stay in the drab collective of offal/organ meat. The terms “organ meat” or “offal” rarely get a positive response...

side dish May 7, 2022

Roasted pumpkin with taleggio cream, sage and curry leaves

The idea of seasons is so important, they indicate change and movement yet are cyclic and are constantly returning. Here in Australia, though, they are somewhat curious, as we live by a European notion of them that has never really correlated with...

condiment April 30, 2022

Red capsicum relish

Autumn is the season for so much preserving. By the time I get to winter I’m often exhausted by the cavalcade of fruit and vegetables that have passed through the kitchen door needing to be jammed, jellied, bottled and preserved. My arms ache from...

condiment April 23, 2022

Rosella hibiscus conserve with guava and whipped tahini

In the same way that eating an uncooked stick of rhubarb is not enticing, rosella flowers, or wild hibiscus, in their raw form are not entirely pleasant to consume. Preparing rosellas in fragrant light syrup and gently poaching them returns a...

entree April 16, 2022

Deep-fried snapper wings with red curry sauce

I am all too aware that this recipe has the potential to be dismissed. Not only does it use a fiddly, lesser-known cut of fish, but you must also deal with the idea of deep-frying at home. If you are willing to try it, however, the rewards will be...

dinner April 9, 2022

Steak tartare and burgers

mince verb verb: mince; 3rd person present: minces; past tense: minced; past participle: minced; gerund or present participle: mincing 1. cut up or grind (food, especially meat) into very small pieces, typically in a machine with revolving blades. 2...

condiment April 2, 2022

Mustard fruits (mostarda di frutta)

Mustard fruits are a condiment originating in the north of Italy that is served with poached meats or grilled poultry and game. Most commercially available mustard fruits are predominately citrus and candied whole, but this same method can be...

side dish March 26, 2022

Brussels sprout mallung

If you don’t know what a mallung is then please allow me to introduce you. Also known as mallum, it’s a Sri Lankan side dish that is usually purely vegetarian. Like a salad, which can be anything really, so too is a mallung. And like a refreshing...

dessert March 19, 2022

Chocolate chip cookies

How do we find favourite recipes these days? There are, of course, books and magazines for inspiration, and newspapers, but so much of our world is now online. For me, inspiration is often found in the images that flit by while scrolling through...