food December 23, 2017

Wines of summer

A selection of the best drops to enjoy this summer.

food December 23, 2017

Roast turkey with mustard mayonnaise, bacon and sage

I ask myself: Why has it come to this point? Why is it that once a year, people are expected to cook a turkey, hoping that this meat they avoid the rest of the time will not be dry when they go to serve the extended family. It is considered, among...

food December 16, 2017

Nougat de Montélimar

For me the pleasure in giving something that you have made is far greater than a desperate lunge at a gift that you think is appropriate. It’s a way of giving the gift of time and effort rather than just dashing to the nearest department store...

food December 9, 2017


And – boom! – just like that it is almost a couple of weeks to Christmas. A slight tightening of the stomach and a thin veil of sweat on the brow is the response from many. The festive season is almost here and with it all the pressure of shopping...

food December 2, 2017

Marinated mussels with green chilli and celtuce

I think it’s probably relevant to talk about the weather. Summer’s here and the sunshine is a good excuse for mussels. One of the joys of summer is seafood. What I like in particular at the moment is seafood that has been marinated. These mussels...

food November 25, 2017

Cured kingfish

This time last year, I had the pleasure of being involved in the Symposium of Australian Gastronomy. It’s a two-yearly event that brings food practitioners and food academics into the same room – a fascinating collision of those who work with food...

food November 18, 2017

Basic cheesecake

Something sad has happened to some foods. They have suffered damnation for their ordinariness. Yet when cooked beautifully, they bring a warm smile to people’s faces and an oft-repeated request for “the recipe”, as if I have performed some feat of...

food November 11, 2017

Smoked bacon and sorrel tart

Smoked bacon and sorrel tart Serves 6 For the pastry – 250g sifted flour – 120g butter, finely diced – 1 small pinch of salt – 60ml ice-cold water For the filling – ½ bunch cavolo nero (optional) – 1 tsp butter – 1 tsp olive oil – 1 brown onion,...

food November 4, 2017

Chicken sandwiches and chicken noodle soup

Sometimes I feel we look for the new at the expense of the old. Nothing brings this into sharper focus than the Melbourne Cup carnival. A week-long extravaganza of the latest fashion, the newest hats, the most beautifully tailored suits, and a...

food October 28, 2017

Quail with pistachio sauce

What I will say about quail is that it is a good barbecue meat. It responds to being cooked on the grill better than a lot of poultry. A lot of chefs like to painstakingly bone and truss and stuff their quail, which is fine and they can do that. But...

food October 21, 2017

Lamb cutlets and selected spring greens

Green and pink. Pink and green. Two of my favourite spring colours. Whether it be the beginnings of the berry season, the soft downy centres of broad bean pods, or the subtlety of spring lamb, they are colours that keep reappearing in the palette of...