food

food

food April 21, 2018

Potato gnocchi with brussels sprouts, hazelnuts and kaiserfleisch

I love the pride small Australian country towns can take in their heritage. My life now straddles two small towns – Lyonville, where I live and garden, and nearby Trentham, where the restaurant is. Two towns with similar heritage, fiercely proud of...

food April 14, 2018

Smoked eggplant with salted cheese and mint

I’ve always liked a kitchen to be a little improvised. Even the commercial kitchen I work in at Longsong in Melbourne doesn’t have an oven. The only heat source is coals. The restriction is what allows for creativity. Otherwise you’re just coming up...

food April 7, 2018

Ham crepes

Poor crepes. In some circles they still have a bad name. Maybe it’s Pancake Parlour’s fault or maybe it was the ’70s when every home cook tried to make crepes and vol-au-vents filled with a thickened chicken stodge that was, frankly, not quite right...

food March 31, 2018

Squid noodles with shiitake

My first head chef when I was an apprentice – Bill Marchetti – used to tell me stories about how, when he first came to Australia, he would buy the squid off fishermen at the jetty for a dollar a kilo. They used to laugh at him. Yesterday I went to...

food March 24, 2018

Smoked cod and potato soup

Traditions create memories, memories create traditions. It’s the ultimate closed-loop system. What has become a favourite tradition of mine brings back a particularly horrid childhood memory. My mother has always been a very keen and very good cook...

food March 17, 2018

Tiramisu

Tiramisu has a somewhat naff mass appeal – it’s a homely dessert that should be for everyone but the addition of raw egg, coffee and alcohol excludes children and some people from the pleasures. Bringing together two things that complete every meal...

food March 10, 2018

Kasoundi

It’s that time of year. Tomatoes are everywhere and even though I have plenty of plants in my garden, I cannot seem to overcome the urge to buy a 10- or 20-kilo box of glossy sauce tomatoes stacked high outside the greengrocer’s. It’s a purchase...

food March 3, 2018

Seafood salad with potatoes and fennel

This recipe comes from the experience of standing in pintxos bars in the Basque country and eating cold seafood marinated in vinegar. There is something very hospitable about a bar top loaded with morsels of seasonal food. It’s up there with my...

food February 24, 2018

Pork pie

It’s a long, long reach back into history to zero in on the beginnings of that French–English rivalry thing. It seems most historians agree that it was about the time of the Hundred Years War (1337–1453) that it really began. Odd, too, that it...

food February 17, 2018

Grilled rib eye

There is one great secret about steak. This is it: start with a great piece of meat. I will always go for something that has some dry age, which lends a more developed flavour and a slightly more tender finish. Dry ageing basically allows moisture...

food February 10, 2018

Coeur à la crème

“For this was on seynt Volantynys day Whan euery bryd comyth there to chese his make.” I blame Geoffrey Chaucer. It was he that first plucked a perfectly normal saint’s day out of the darkness and sent it into the glare of the popularist light...