food

food

food June 6, 2020

Carrot cake

Having too many carrots is not a problem I usually face. Like many growers and producers across the land, the coronavirus pandemic has thrown our ordered existence into chaos. I grow a lot of carrots. The earth that I farm is rich, deep, volcanic...

food May 30, 2020

Poached chicken and pomelo

For as long as I can remember, Sunday is the only day of the week that provides me with some semblance of a routine. And one constant is a weekly food shop that almost always involves buying a whole chicken. Taking the time to prepare a whole...

food May 23, 2020

Roasted autumn vegetables and kohlrabi slaw

My vegetable garden is a little like a good vinaigrette – about three quarters happiness and one quarter consternation. The consternation is like the acidic component of the vinaigrette – absolutely essential, as it balances the fullness and the...

food May 16, 2020

Tuna sashimi

Talking about the preparation of large pelagic fish such as this southern bluefin tuna is intimidating for two reasons. First, because Japanese culture and cuisine goes to reverential lengths to honour the beauty of this fish. Second, because...

food May 9, 2020

Croissants

If you’re to believe what you read on social media these days, everyone is becoming a baker during isolation. Of course, I have done a lot of baking in my life, so my interest was piqued when I happened across a link to an English baker, Adam Pagor...

food May 2, 2020

Not borsch

As a younger chef, I’d go to enormous lengths to ensure a dish’s authenticity. I would spend hours researching and drilling for extra information on certain cuisines and their origins, fearful of inadvertently falling into the trap of cultural...

food April 25, 2020

Quail roasted in milk

The technique of cooking meat in milk, or milk products, is used throughout the world. From Central Asia, where meat is often marinated in scented yoghurt before being turned into curry, to the American Deep South’s chicken soaked in spiced...

food April 18, 2020

Quail eggs with celery heart remoulade

Remoulade is a go-to dish regularly pulled from my bag of tricks. It sits somewhere between a dressing and a salad and can hold so many variations. Beetroot remoulade, sorrel remoulade, kohlrabi remoulade, and on it goes. The parameters are...

food April 11, 2020

Cornichons and quick red onion pickle

It would be somewhat of an understatement to suggest the humble home lunch platter is of little importance. A month ago, few of us would have given it much thought. Today, as most of us are confined to our homes, it is of utmost importance. Of...

food April 4, 2020

Coconut sticky rice with grilled mango

Summer is over. But we can still enjoy the last of the fruits we associate with the season and, hopefully along with them, a few more warm, sunny days. End-of-season and tree-ripened fruit that have had a longer “hang time”, perhaps in cooler...

food March 28, 2020

Blackberry pie

Sweet, sweet childhood memories. These are the things we often cling to when the future is uncertain and frightening. Innocence. Simplicity. Uncomplicated times. I think of such moments and my mind conjures an image of the blackberry pie that went...