food June 16, 2018

Potato terrine with Gruyere and garlic

One of the great joys of having a restaurant where your guests place themselves gently in your hands, and allow you to decide what to feed them, is that often you will put a dish before them that they would not choose in a million years if they were...

food June 9, 2018

Grilled blue mackerel

The big thing with mackerel is that you either love it or hate it. It’s an oily fish and there’s no getting away from that. Traditional treatment of mackerel tends to come from Scandinavian countries, where it is pickled and preserved. The Japanese...

food June 2, 2018

Apple pithiviers

Pee-tee-vee-YAY. Yep, that’s how you pronounce pithivier – a little gem of a pastry that never fails to bring a bit of sunshine to the shorter winter days. Pithivier is more a work of design than an absolute on how and what it’s made of. There are a...

food May 26, 2018

Salt-baked celeriac with mustard cream and salmon roe

I’m a massive fan of cooking vegetables as you would meat, and this time of year is prime time to practise. Root vegetables are coming on and they are simply the best at translating slow-cooking techniques often reserved for animal cuts on the bone...

food May 19, 2018

Spiced lamb shanks with quince

There comes a time every autumn when I start to get a little tired of cooking quince desserts. There is no doubt that at the beginning of the season there is great excitement when the first tray of ruby red fruit emerges from its long, slow roast...

food May 12, 2018

Pipis and periwinkles with new potatoes and seaweed butter

One of the greatest culinary gifts from North America is clamato juice, which is the combination of tomato juice and clam broth. It has an incredible balance of acids and umami, and, when combined with vodka and celery and pickles, things get wild...

food May 5, 2018

Chocolate cake

There’s nothing like an impending “state occasion” such as Mother’s Day to bring out the wannabe cake-maker in me. I must admit that when I scroll through pictures on Instagram of other people’s cake triumphs, I often feel a little inadequate – my...

food April 28, 2018

Fig tart

I have never been a fruit guy, but my girlfriend is a fruit bat – we have a fig tree in the backyard and she’s out there every morning. Now I really appreciate eating a fig that is ripened straight from the tree, which has never come in contact with...

food April 28, 2018

The best wines of autumn

A selection of the best drops to enjoy this autumn.

food April 21, 2018

Potato gnocchi with brussels sprouts, hazelnuts and kaiserfleisch

I love the pride small Australian country towns can take in their heritage. My life now straddles two small towns – Lyonville, where I live and garden, and nearby Trentham, where the restaurant is. Two towns with similar heritage, fiercely proud of...

food April 14, 2018

Smoked eggplant with salted cheese and mint

I’ve always liked a kitchen to be a little improvised. Even the commercial kitchen I work in at Longsong in Melbourne doesn’t have an oven. The only heat source is coals. The restriction is what allows for creativity. Otherwise you’re just coming up...