food

dinner August 13, 2022

Grillade des mariniers du Rhône

The barges of the Rhône. Trawling up and down that enormous river that runs from the Swiss Alps all the way to the Mediterranean, cutting a swath through France. And from the Rhône spring numerous tributaries that meander through the French...

side dish August 6, 2022

Poutine

Not all junk food needs to be junky. At its essence KFC’s mashed potato and gravy could be a thing of beauty if it wasn’t for questionable provenance and process. After all, we are just talking about a dish with essentially the same ingredients –...

baking July 30, 2022

Cardamom and cocoa sponge cake

For most of my life I have very firmly been a summer person. I love being hot, swimming, beaches, tropical islands, barbecues and picnics, glary daytime sun and long sultry evenings. It feels energising. Winter traditionally made me a little grumpy...

dessert July 23, 2022

Crostoli

Now the citrus season is in full swing, I am forever on the lookout for delicious ways to use the excess fruit. And while crostoli feature only a bit of zest, they are a worthy addition to my table. Crostoli come in many forms and are known by many...

food July 16, 2022

How native foods are transforming Australian cuisine

Long overlooked outside Indigenous communities, the native food industry is poised to transform what is considered Australian cuisine.

side dish July 16, 2022

Grilled octopus

Octopus cooking techniques are rarely delicate. Most I have come across centred on braising. And the vision of octopuses in a cement mixer, or the common practice of bashing them on the rocks after being caught, hardly helps its profile as a...

dinner July 9, 2022

Mussels in a tamarind broth

Having a few mussel dishes up your sleeve is a very handy thing. They are relatively cheap and easy to source, you can cook them faster than it takes to decide on takeaway and they play agreeably with so many flavours. Go buttery with lots of garlic...

dinner July 2, 2022

Cappelletti in brodo

“The Tortellini in Brodo that first night was a dish they would talk about for years. Oh, how it nourished them and pleased them, gave them resilience for all the unexpected moments to come,” writes my friend Sarah Winman in her book Still Life ,...

dinner June 25, 2022

Zampone pig trotters

These arctic cold blasts lead me to comfort foods and meats such as shanks and osso buco cooked on the bone. At the end of every shank is a hoof, but not all hooves can be prepared in such a way – the pig in particular lends itself well to long...

dinner June 18, 2022

Lasagne

One of the things we have learnt in these times of Covid is that lasagne, despite its Italian origins, seems to have made its way into the Australian psyche, becoming a strong contender for a spot as one of our national dishes. We have adopted and...

dinner June 11, 2022

Chicken Kiev

There is so much dispute about where the chicken Kiev comes from. The French claim it as theirs, but so do the Russians, of course. The Americans have a say, suggesting immigrant Russians served it in their restaurants to lure in homesick countrymen...