food

dinner July 31, 2021

Oyster mushrooms and buckwheat porridge with miso, seaweed and truffle

Black truffles, or Tuber melanosporum , are kicking. The first frosts have hit our truffle-producing regions, promoting maturity in the subterranean fungi. While prices are intimidating – per kilogram they can cost many thousands of dollars –...

dinner July 24, 2021

Mud crab with curry leaf butter

Before you dismiss the idea of cooking crab because you think it’s too hard, please give me a moment to persuade you that it’s not. I think most people will agree the flesh from a crab is delicious. It’s succulent, sweet and slightly salty, with an...

entree July 17, 2021

Duck breasts stuffed with prunes

As the monotony of coronavirus seems to put life on repeat, there are many things we are all missing. For me, and my friends and customers, the travel question remains scratchy. Months ago it was a question of when; now we wonder about the prospect...

dinner July 10, 2021

Radicchio, walnut tarator, blueberries and roasted blood sausage

The debate over combining fruit with savoury dishes can become almost as passionate as that concerning religion. It’s all in or not at all. Like pineapple on pizza – the idea can be met with disgust or delight in equal measure. But – shock, horror...

side dish July 3, 2021

Potato cakes

Even the most ordinary of foods seem to have lost some of their magic in recent times. As with the regular summertime lament that tomatoes don’t taste like they used to, when was the last time you had a really good potato cake? Nowadays potato cakes...

food May 15, 2021

Pot-au-feu/ bollito misto

Pot-au-feu in France, bollito misto in Italy. This “peasant” hotpot of cheaper cuts is an absolute staple in many European households. It’s a bit of a contradiction of a dish, as at no point in the process does it show any semblance of the absolute...

food May 8, 2021

Pistachio and raspberry mille-feuille

Nothing says “I love you” more to my mother than a bit of pastry frippery for afternoon tea on Mother’s Day. And what could be better than a slightly more modern take on the vanilla slice? A lovely pistachio and raspberry mille-feuille. While the...

food May 1, 2021

Dancing grass crumpets

I’m making a huge assumption but, due to last year’s Covid-19 lockdowns, I figure most people now have access to a sourdough starter/mother. If you don’t have your own, I recommend sweet-talking a friend into lending you some of theirs and building...

food April 24, 2021

Pomegranate molasses

The pomegranate tree is a delightful specimen in any garden, and at this time of year its amazing fruit is ready to be harvested. It is a fruit that fascinates me on every level. From its etymology to its symbolism, it is full of wonder. Its English...

food April 17, 2021

Peter’s pickled peppers

One of the best things I ate in a time before Covid-19 was a pepper pickled by a guy named Pete. Pete took some peppers at their peak (although I can’t be sure if Pete picked those particular peppers), passed them through a wood-fired oven and...

food April 10, 2021

Green tomato cake and green tomato and zucchini relish

As we have tripped over the autumn equinox, it is time to start farewelling the vegetables that have filled our summer and early autumn months. It is also the time to start thinking about what to do with green tomatoes. I have to confess that my...