food

food

food August 18, 2018

Artichokes à la barigoule

The window in which to pick artichokes is very short. They go from being young, tender and a joy to prepare to a stringy and tough time-waster, which makes absolute sense considering they are a thistle. This, combined with their short shelf life,...

food August 11, 2018

Candied peel

I know I’m courting controversy and might even lose some of you immediately with the next statement, but here we go. Candied peel is absolutely delicious. I can hear the howls of horror in my head. I’ve come to conclude that it must be one of the...

food August 4, 2018

Sea urchin with cultured butter and toast

Sea urchin can be one of the best things you can eat or one of the worst things, depending on the day. The handling is so important. They go from being sweet and tasting like the ocean to tasting like, for want of a better term, cat food. If you...

food July 28, 2018

Oxtail parcels

There are times when I really feel my 20th-century Australianness, and not always in a good way. Often it is when I am thinking about, or cooking, offal. Sure, I remember staying at friends’ farms and watching a sheep being slaughtered in the yards...

food July 21, 2018

Nettle rice

Talk of nettles and most folk flinch, recalling run-ins in fields with shorts. The thought of eating or even harvesting them isn’t exactly met with exuberance. Like most things involving gardening, it draws an analogy with life, as I was once taught...

food June 2, 2018

Apple pithiviers

Pee-tee-vee-YAY. Yep, that’s how you pronounce pithivier – a little gem of a pastry that never fails to bring a bit of sunshine to the shorter winter days. Pithivier is more a work of design than an absolute on how and what it’s made of. There are a...

food May 26, 2018

Salt-baked celeriac with mustard cream and salmon roe

I’m a massive fan of cooking vegetables as you would meat, and this time of year is prime time to practise. Root vegetables are coming on and they are simply the best at translating slow-cooking techniques often reserved for animal cuts on the bone...

food May 19, 2018

Spiced lamb shanks with quince

There comes a time every autumn when I start to get a little tired of cooking quince desserts. There is no doubt that at the beginning of the season there is great excitement when the first tray of ruby red fruit emerges from its long, slow roast...

food May 12, 2018

Pipis and periwinkles with new potatoes and seaweed butter

One of the greatest culinary gifts from North America is clamato juice, which is the combination of tomato juice and clam broth. It has an incredible balance of acids and umami, and, when combined with vodka and celery and pickles, things get wild...

food May 5, 2018

Chocolate cake

There’s nothing like an impending “state occasion” such as Mother’s Day to bring out the wannabe cake-maker in me. I must admit that when I scroll through pictures on Instagram of other people’s cake triumphs, I often feel a little inadequate – my...

food April 28, 2018

Fig tart

I have never been a fruit guy, but my girlfriend is a fruit bat – we have a fig tree in the backyard and she’s out there every morning. Now I really appreciate eating a fig that is ripened straight from the tree, which has never come in contact with...