food

side dish May 14, 2022

Sweet and sour sweetbreads

In a stroke of pure marketing genius for the meat industry, someone developed the name “sweetbreads” to apply to what would otherwise stay in the drab collective of offal/organ meat. The terms “organ meat” or “offal” rarely get a positive response...

side dish May 7, 2022

Roasted pumpkin with taleggio cream, sage and curry leaves

The idea of seasons is so important, they indicate change and movement yet are cyclic and are constantly returning. Here in Australia, though, they are somewhat curious, as we live by a European notion of them that has never really correlated with...

condiment April 30, 2022

Red capsicum relish

Autumn is the season for so much preserving. By the time I get to winter I’m often exhausted by the cavalcade of fruit and vegetables that have passed through the kitchen door needing to be jammed, jellied, bottled and preserved. My arms ache from...

condiment April 23, 2022

Rosella hibiscus conserve with guava and whipped tahini

In the same way that eating an uncooked stick of rhubarb is not enticing, rosella flowers, or wild hibiscus, in their raw form are not entirely pleasant to consume. Preparing rosellas in fragrant light syrup and gently poaching them returns a...

entree April 16, 2022

Deep-fried snapper wings with red curry sauce

I am all too aware that this recipe has the potential to be dismissed. Not only does it use a fiddly, lesser-known cut of fish, but you must also deal with the idea of deep-frying at home. If you are willing to try it, however, the rewards will be...

condiment February 26, 2022

Pesto & pistou

She says pistou, I say pesto. It is always the same in our house, where there is one vegan and one omnivore. Summer is the season for all the green sauces. Salsa verde, chimichurri, pistou and pesto. In our house, though, we gravitate to the two...

side dish February 19, 2022

Bunya nut fruit salad

The Northern Rivers region of New South Wales, with its mixture of established hardwood trees and tree fern undergrowth, resembles in parts Jurassic Park. Subtropical vines flesh out the mid-canopy in our big scrub that once dominated the region...

dessert February 12, 2022

Upside-down peach, almond and polenta cake

One of the interesting things about food and eating is how throughout your life your tastes can morph. I spent most of my life blissfully on the fence about the idea of cake. There were some delicious ones of course, but my cravings generally veered...

breakfast February 5, 2022

Crumpets with hot-smoked trout

I have come to crumpets very late in life. While the store-bought variety has been in pantries my whole life, I have never been drawn to them, until I had to make some for a comparative yeast batter exercise. Now I have a fascination for them. For...

dinner January 29, 2022

Golden chicken soup (calendula fever)

I have lately spent a lot of my time in cafes pushing single viola flowers off poached eggs and choking on dried petals in my smoothies. The trend that started with nasturtium flowers has run deep into anything non-toxic. Flowers in food – or rather...

side dish January 22, 2022

Smoky eggplant with yoghurt, tahini and seeds

I have a love-hate relationship with eggplants. We had an auspicious start, years of deliciousness, until we hit a rocky patch, in no small part due to me. And, although it’s smooth sailing once again, the memory of that fractious period refuses to...