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food

food April 4, 2020

Coconut sticky rice with grilled mango

Summer is over. But we can still enjoy the last of the fruits we associate with the season and, hopefully along with them, a few more warm, sunny days. End-of-season and tree-ripened fruit that have had a longer “hang time”, perhaps in cooler...

food March 28, 2020

Blackberry pie

Sweet, sweet childhood memories. These are the things we often cling to when the future is uncertain and frightening. Innocence. Simplicity. Uncomplicated times. I think of such moments and my mind conjures an image of the blackberry pie that went...

food March 21, 2020

Tripe with olives and roasted tomato

The inside of a cow’s stomach looks a lot like a swimming cap. Sometimes it is measured in “caps” in markets – as in, “Two caps of tripe, please.” This continues our odd use of language when referencing meat products. If I put on a dish of “raw...

food March 14, 2020

Eggplant dip and miso-roasted Japanese eggplant

I hadn’t realised until a couple of years ago what a long and glorious history the eggplant has across many cultures. As a vegetable to eat, it has not always been a favourite of mine. As a vegetable to grow, sometimes it has presented as downright...

food March 7, 2020

White beans with lamb ribs and green goddess sauce

I’ve always loved cooking with dried beans. Somewhat maligned as boring and bland, they are a staple in my pantry. And while some people consider them just a filler or a vehicle for sauce and other flavours, I like to occasionally give them a turn...

food December 21, 2019

Vegan Christmas recipes

Christmas doesn’t have to be about turkey, ham and roast pork. One of the things I have learnt living in a vegetarian household for the past three years is that Christmas is about celebration, and that the meat-free dishes need to be as festive and...

food December 14, 2019

Tiramisu milk punch

There are two kinds of milk punch. The first, typically called brandy milk punch or bourbon milk punch, is popular in New Orleans, is citrus-free and includes milk. The second type, often called English milk punch or clarified milk punch, is what we...

food December 7, 2019

Potato pan bread

For me, baking is about the pursuit of an approachable loaf. In the food industry, conversations may revolve around which sourdough has the highest hydration, yet 99.5 per cent of the population are consuming a heavily processed product, the origins...

food November 30, 2019

Non-traditional tiramisu

Panettone, I’m sorry, but you just don’t ring my jingle bells. I know you arrive in beautiful packaging, with your gorgeous proportions, but, frankly, you always come across as a bit dry for my taste. Italians the world over may wince at my words,...

food November 23, 2019

Broccoli stems in broccoli sauce

Cooked and seasoned vegetables left to cool to room temperature are so pleasing to eat. I find the flavour and complexity comes through more than when the vegetables are eaten raw, and it is much easier to tell the differences in how the produce is...

food November 16, 2019

Mince pies and Fergus Henderson’s Eccles cakes

A little more than a month ago, on the other side of the world, the inimitable St. JOHN restaurant celebrated its 25th anniversary. There are few restaurants that have had their logo copied more or their influence reach further than London’s St...