food

food

food June 23, 2018

Smoked oysters and chicken broth

The first thing to face is the fact that cooking an oyster is almost seen as a crime. We can blame the Monday Special – oysters kilpatrick that have been open a day too long and are hiding out with a bacon accomplice. But when done with...

food June 16, 2018

Potato terrine with Gruyere and garlic

One of the great joys of having a restaurant where your guests place themselves gently in your hands, and allow you to decide what to feed them, is that often you will put a dish before them that they would not choose in a million years if they were...

food June 9, 2018

Grilled blue mackerel

The big thing with mackerel is that you either love it or hate it. It’s an oily fish and there’s no getting away from that. Traditional treatment of mackerel tends to come from Scandinavian countries, where it is pickled and preserved. The Japanese...

food June 2, 2018

Apple pithiviers

Pee-tee-vee-YAY. Yep, that’s how you pronounce pithivier – a little gem of a pastry that never fails to bring a bit of sunshine to the shorter winter days. Pithivier is more a work of design than an absolute on how and what it’s made of. There are a...

food May 26, 2018

Salt-baked celeriac with mustard cream and salmon roe

I’m a massive fan of cooking vegetables as you would meat, and this time of year is prime time to practise. Root vegetables are coming on and they are simply the best at translating slow-cooking techniques often reserved for animal cuts on the bone...

food April 14, 2018

Smoked eggplant with salted cheese and mint

I’ve always liked a kitchen to be a little improvised. Even the commercial kitchen I work in at Longsong in Melbourne doesn’t have an oven. The only heat source is coals. The restriction is what allows for creativity. Otherwise you’re just coming up...

food April 7, 2018

Ham crepes

Poor crepes. In some circles they still have a bad name. Maybe it’s Pancake Parlour’s fault or maybe it was the ’70s when every home cook tried to make crepes and vol-au-vents filled with a thickened chicken stodge that was, frankly, not quite right...

food March 31, 2018

Squid noodles with shiitake

My first head chef when I was an apprentice – Bill Marchetti – used to tell me stories about how, when he first came to Australia, he would buy the squid off fishermen at the jetty for a dollar a kilo. They used to laugh at him. Yesterday I went to...

food March 24, 2018

Smoked cod and potato soup

Traditions create memories, memories create traditions. It’s the ultimate closed-loop system. What has become a favourite tradition of mine brings back a particularly horrid childhood memory. My mother has always been a very keen and very good cook...

food March 17, 2018

Tiramisu

Tiramisu has a somewhat naff mass appeal – it’s a homely dessert that should be for everyone but the addition of raw egg, coffee and alcohol excludes children and some people from the pleasures. Bringing together two things that complete every meal...

food March 10, 2018

Kasoundi

It’s that time of year. Tomatoes are everywhere and even though I have plenty of plants in my garden, I cannot seem to overcome the urge to buy a 10- or 20-kilo box of glossy sauce tomatoes stacked high outside the greengrocer’s. It’s a purchase...