food

food

food November 17, 2018

Spring onion and leek broth with smoked eel

In south-west Victoria, where I grew up, there is evidence of this country’s early forms of aquaculture practised on Gunditjmara land in the form of elaborate eel traps and runs believed to have been developed up to 8000 years ago. This sight has...

food November 10, 2018

Spring omelette

Eggs. They are fundamental to my style of cooking and have been a much-loved human food source since the dawn of humankind. Today, the most common egg we eat is the chicken egg. So, what actually makes up an egg? The shell, the white and the yolk,...

food November 3, 2018

Furikake

In cooking, sometimes convenience is key. I now focus about 25 per cent of my time in the kitchen on building a larder of fermented, dried and smoked goods that add depth of flavour in varying forms of acid and salt. The result yields a benefit not...

food October 27, 2018

Spring linguini on pea purée

Dietary requirements, food intolerances, religious decrees and plain old proclamations of personal dislikes are now all in a day’s work for anybody in the food service industry. More than ever before, hospitality workers need to be able to decode...

food October 20, 2018

Whipped smoked fish with broad beans, leaves and salted cucumber

Possibly the best part of a broad bean is the leaf. But most often it is simply discarded, as usually the plant is grown purely for the bean to be picked at the height of ripeness and served fresh. I love cooking with everything the plant throws at...

food July 14, 2018

Gnocchi Parisienne with roasted pumpkin and sage butter

There’s no denying that I love the versatility of choux pastry. Once the technique is mastered it is the key to so many dishes. First, there is the baked version, well known as the basis for cream puffs, eclairs, Paris-Brests and profiteroles. Add a...

food July 7, 2018

Pickled quince with cime di rapa and bottarga

I’m not sure how many varieties of quinces there are but I know there are shitloads. This recipe is about trying to use things during a glut, like making passata when you have excess tomatoes. One technique for cooking quinces is to do it slowly...

food June 30, 2018

Duck confit and ventrèche

There is something magical about the relationship between flesh, salt and fat. Long before refrigeration and factory farming, there was a time and a place for the life of an animal to end and its flesh to be preserved for the coming months. Few...

food June 23, 2018

Smoked oysters and chicken broth

The first thing to face is the fact that cooking an oyster is almost seen as a crime. We can blame the Monday Special – oysters kilpatrick that have been open a day too long and are hiding out with a bacon accomplice. But when done with...

food June 16, 2018

Potato terrine with Gruyere and garlic

One of the great joys of having a restaurant where your guests place themselves gently in your hands, and allow you to decide what to feed them, is that often you will put a dish before them that they would not choose in a million years if they were...

food June 9, 2018

Grilled blue mackerel

The big thing with mackerel is that you either love it or hate it. It’s an oily fish and there’s no getting away from that. Traditional treatment of mackerel tends to come from Scandinavian countries, where it is pickled and preserved. The Japanese...