food

food

food September 15, 2018

Spring milk ricotta with honey and kunzea pikelets

Even milk has seasonality. Developments in agriculture that have seen variation diminish can be seen in both a positive and negative light. However, the difference in a milk from a spring pasture should be celebrated. I have the good fortune of...

food September 8, 2018

Provençale fish soup

We talk a lot about waste these days. And a great deal about the horrendous pilfering of the oceans and the devastating effect this will have on our futures and the future of the planet. It is a subject many of us grapple with every day in our...

food September 1, 2018

Grilled mud crab with curry butter

I was lucky enough to recently find myself on an immense cattle station in the Gulf of Carpentaria with a group of friends. This particular station runs Brahman cattle, the seemingly naturalised breed that is in abundance in the north. Curiously,...

food August 25, 2018

Saffron and currant buns

The delicious teatime treat of saffron and currant buns, also known as revel buns, is native to the countryside of Cornwall. And while the mention of saffron may conjure images of Buddhist monks in flowing robes, this saffron snack rose to...

food August 18, 2018

Artichokes à la barigoule

The window in which to pick artichokes is very short. They go from being young, tender and a joy to prepare to a stringy and tough time-waster, which makes absolute sense considering they are a thistle. This, combined with their short shelf life,...

food May 19, 2018

Spiced lamb shanks with quince

There comes a time every autumn when I start to get a little tired of cooking quince desserts. There is no doubt that at the beginning of the season there is great excitement when the first tray of ruby red fruit emerges from its long, slow roast...

food May 12, 2018

Pipis and periwinkles with new potatoes and seaweed butter

One of the greatest culinary gifts from North America is clamato juice, which is the combination of tomato juice and clam broth. It has an incredible balance of acids and umami, and, when combined with vodka and celery and pickles, things get wild...

food May 5, 2018

Chocolate cake

There’s nothing like an impending “state occasion” such as Mother’s Day to bring out the wannabe cake-maker in me. I must admit that when I scroll through pictures on Instagram of other people’s cake triumphs, I often feel a little inadequate – my...

food April 28, 2018

Fig tart

I have never been a fruit guy, but my girlfriend is a fruit bat – we have a fig tree in the backyard and she’s out there every morning. Now I really appreciate eating a fig that is ripened straight from the tree, which has never come in contact with...

food April 21, 2018

Potato gnocchi with brussels sprouts, hazelnuts and kaiserfleisch

I love the pride small Australian country towns can take in their heritage. My life now straddles two small towns – Lyonville, where I live and garden, and nearby Trentham, where the restaurant is. Two towns with similar heritage, fiercely proud of...

food April 14, 2018

Smoked eggplant with salted cheese and mint

I’ve always liked a kitchen to be a little improvised. Even the commercial kitchen I work in at Longsong in Melbourne doesn’t have an oven. The only heat source is coals. The restriction is what allows for creativity. Otherwise you’re just coming up...