food

food

food February 23, 2019

Grilled rockmelon with turmeric, fetta and mint

As a youngster, I always had an aversion to rockmelon, or cantaloupe as we call it in Tasmania and Victoria. To my younger nose, it had a pungent odour, akin to old socks. It wasn’t until I travelled to Japan, where melons are coveted and a single...

food February 16, 2019

Zucchini soup, and zucchini and parmesan fritters

Earlier in the summer I gave a friend a tour of my vegetable garden and hothouse. As she glanced across the rows of small vegetable seedlings making their brave way in the world, her gaze fixed upon the zucchini plants. A 15-metre row of small,...

food February 9, 2019

Almond cream with salted cucumber and dill oil

Greater knowledge and understanding of food production has definitely influenced people’s dietary decisions in the past few years. But even so, when it comes to thinking about how certain foods are produced and the effects that has on our bodies and...

food February 2, 2019

Roast duck with peaches

Heston Blumenthal translates his meticulously researched version of food from the court of King Henry VIII into his iconic “meat fruit”. The Chinese have had an affinity with ducks and plum sauce since imperial times. But a bit of cultural cringe...

food January 26, 2019

Grilled kingfish collar with tare and yuzu kosho

What is more fitting for summer lunch on an island continent than fresh seafood? Because my chef brother-in-law is also a keen diver, our family meals are often brimming with whole fish, abalone, clams and crayfish. How lucky are we? The beauty of...

food August 11, 2018

Candied peel

I know I’m courting controversy and might even lose some of you immediately with the next statement, but here we go. Candied peel is absolutely delicious. I can hear the howls of horror in my head. I’ve come to conclude that it must be one of the...

food August 4, 2018

Sea urchin with cultured butter and toast

Sea urchin can be one of the best things you can eat or one of the worst things, depending on the day. The handling is so important. They go from being sweet and tasting like the ocean to tasting like, for want of a better term, cat food. If you...

food July 28, 2018

Oxtail parcels

There are times when I really feel my 20th-century Australianness, and not always in a good way. Often it is when I am thinking about, or cooking, offal. Sure, I remember staying at friends’ farms and watching a sheep being slaughtered in the yards...

food July 21, 2018

Nettle rice

Talk of nettles and most folk flinch, recalling run-ins in fields with shorts. The thought of eating or even harvesting them isn’t exactly met with exuberance. Like most things involving gardening, it draws an analogy with life, as I was once taught...

food July 14, 2018

Gnocchi Parisienne with roasted pumpkin and sage butter

There’s no denying that I love the versatility of choux pastry. Once the technique is mastered it is the key to so many dishes. First, there is the baked version, well known as the basis for cream puffs, eclairs, Paris-Brests and profiteroles. Add a...

food July 7, 2018

Pickled quince with cime di rapa and bottarga

I’m not sure how many varieties of quinces there are but I know there are shitloads. This recipe is about trying to use things during a glut, like making passata when you have excess tomatoes. One technique for cooking quinces is to do it slowly...