food

food

food September 15, 2018

Spring milk ricotta with honey and kunzea pikelets

Even milk has seasonality. Developments in agriculture that have seen variation diminish can be seen in both a positive and negative light. However, the difference in a milk from a spring pasture should be celebrated. I have the good fortune of...

food September 8, 2018

Provençale fish soup

We talk a lot about waste these days. And a great deal about the horrendous pilfering of the oceans and the devastating effect this will have on our futures and the future of the planet. It is a subject many of us grapple with every day in our...

food September 1, 2018

Grilled mud crab with curry butter

I was lucky enough to recently find myself on an immense cattle station in the Gulf of Carpentaria with a group of friends. This particular station runs Brahman cattle, the seemingly naturalised breed that is in abundance in the north. Curiously,...

food August 25, 2018

Saffron and currant buns

The delicious teatime treat of saffron and currant buns, also known as revel buns, is native to the countryside of Cornwall. And while the mention of saffron may conjure images of Buddhist monks in flowing robes, this saffron snack rose to...

food August 18, 2018

Artichokes à la barigoule

The window in which to pick artichokes is very short. They go from being young, tender and a joy to prepare to a stringy and tough time-waster, which makes absolute sense considering they are a thistle. This, combined with their short shelf life,...

food April 7, 2018

Ham crepes

Poor crepes. In some circles they still have a bad name. Maybe it’s Pancake Parlour’s fault or maybe it was the ’70s when every home cook tried to make crepes and vol-au-vents filled with a thickened chicken stodge that was, frankly, not quite right...

food March 31, 2018

Squid noodles with shiitake

My first head chef when I was an apprentice – Bill Marchetti – used to tell me stories about how, when he first came to Australia, he would buy the squid off fishermen at the jetty for a dollar a kilo. They used to laugh at him. Yesterday I went to...

food March 24, 2018

Smoked cod and potato soup

Traditions create memories, memories create traditions. It’s the ultimate closed-loop system. What has become a favourite tradition of mine brings back a particularly horrid childhood memory. My mother has always been a very keen and very good cook...

food March 17, 2018

Tiramisu

Tiramisu has a somewhat naff mass appeal – it’s a homely dessert that should be for everyone but the addition of raw egg, coffee and alcohol excludes children and some people from the pleasures. Bringing together two things that complete every meal...

food March 10, 2018

Kasoundi

It’s that time of year. Tomatoes are everywhere and even though I have plenty of plants in my garden, I cannot seem to overcome the urge to buy a 10- or 20-kilo box of glossy sauce tomatoes stacked high outside the greengrocer’s. It’s a purchase...

food March 3, 2018

Seafood salad with potatoes and fennel

This recipe comes from the experience of standing in pintxos bars in the Basque country and eating cold seafood marinated in vinegar. There is something very hospitable about a bar top loaded with morsels of seasonal food. It’s up there with my...