food April 3, 2021

Smashed cucumber salad

Texture in salad is key. For me, the point of these kinds of salads is to lift the rest of the dishes served in a set by providing freshness. And the key to freshness is that hydrating crunch. On paper, this list of ingredients sounds at odds, but...

food November 7, 2020

Confit mushroom salad

Fungi are a fascinating food product. In recent years some incredible varieties have begun flooding the Australian market, but even so we are really only skimming the surface of their potential. We have gone from just using generic button or field...

food May 23, 2020

Roasted autumn vegetables and kohlrabi slaw

My vegetable garden is a little like a good vinaigrette – about three quarters happiness and one quarter consternation. The consternation is like the acidic component of the vinaigrette – absolutely essential, as it balances the fullness and the...

food January 25, 2020

Blackberry and beetroot salad

Summer is in its prime and the juicy foods are abundant. Berries, stone fruit, zucchinis and cucumbers all have a relatively high moisture content and sweetness at this time of year. A great way to showcase this is to use the juice from the fruit or...

food August 17, 2019

Roasted and raw brussels sprout salad with anchovy

They used to be the vegetable of children’s nightmares, and probably still are. But the once-hated brussels sprout has become elevated of late. It’s from the same family as kale, and I can see it becoming similarly popular. Whereas kale got cool...

food February 23, 2019

Grilled rockmelon with turmeric, fetta and mint

As a youngster, I always had an aversion to rockmelon, or cantaloupe as we call it in Tasmania and Victoria. To my younger nose, it had a pungent odour, akin to old socks. It wasn’t until I travelled to Japan, where melons are coveted and a single...

food April 14, 2018

Smoked eggplant with salted cheese and mint

I’ve always liked a kitchen to be a little improvised. Even the commercial kitchen I work in at Longsong in Melbourne doesn’t have an oven. The only heat source is coals. The restriction is what allows for creativity. Otherwise you’re just coming up...

food January 27, 2018

Barbecued brined pork loin with potato salad and grilled zucchini

The history of cooking is a topic of enormous fascination for me. Particularly the execution of safe food-handling practices in pre-refrigeration days. In real terms, it’s just not that long ago that life was not so easy when it came to keeping food...

food May 20, 2017

Beetroot salad

This recipe could be made with canned beetroot, but if you do have the time, I would definitely encourage you to buy baby beetroots and poach them. What you get is greater freshness and more satisfaction, and some leaves that can be shredded and...

food May 6, 2017

Raw Brussels sprouts salad

Traditionally, Brussels sprouts were boiled or steamed for an inexplicably long time. This gave them a grey tinge and a bad name. But then we started treating them with a bit of dignity and bacon, and life was good again. Brussels sprouts have...

food March 18, 2017

Warm salad of zucchini, leek, smoked butter and bottarga

One of the best ways to cook zucchinis is over coals. I usually split them down the middle and cook them on the cut side only. I cook them until they are al dente, if that term can apply to more than pasta. I season the cut side for 15 minutes before I put them on the coals, and then cook until they are golden. From there, they can be sliced and dressed with most vinegars and any manner of European herbs.