food

food

food May 27, 2017

Chestnut, rosemary and pine nut cake

The real name for this is castagnaccio, which I can’t pronounce responsibly so I call it chestnut cake. It’s a recipe I first encountered in Italy quite a few years ago and enjoyed immensely. Back in Australia, I couldn’t find it anywhere so I made...

food May 20, 2017

Beetroot salad

This recipe could be made with canned beetroot, but if you do have the time, I would definitely encourage you to buy baby beetroots and poach them. What you get is greater freshness and more satisfaction, and some leaves that can be shredded and...

food May 13, 2017

Orecchiette with cauliflower and anchovy

A confession: I’ve never tried to make orecchiette, because it looks really difficult. There are various techniques to achieve the perfect, ear-like shape, with its smooth indentation and the cracked surface to hold sauce, but I won’t go into them...

food May 6, 2017

Raw Brussels sprouts salad

Traditionally, Brussels sprouts were boiled or steamed for an inexplicably long time. This gave them a grey tinge and a bad name. But then we started treating them with a bit of dignity and bacon, and life was good again. Brussels sprouts have...

food April 29, 2017

Rollmops

Few dishes are as evocative of a place as pickled fish. The word “rollmop” is German in origin, derived from the words rollen (to roll) and mops (the German name for pug dogs and also “blockhead”), but the dish itself is Danish. Rollmop specifically...

food April 22, 2017

Baked celeriac and potatoes with honey, cinnamon and thyme

As we welcome the start of the cooler months, this recipe has appeared on the menu. The combination of celeriac, potato and thyme just works. The other ingredient that works well, if you were to indulge, would be the inclusion of duck fat instead of...

food April 15, 2017

Gougères

I never tire of this recipe. I started cooking it when I started my apprenticeship. It was one of the first things I learnt to cook. This week in the restaurant we cooked the same recipe as a snack at the bar. Admittedly, the one I cooked 25 years...

food April 8, 2017

Sweet and sour onions and chicken livers

In the vegetable world, what we source and use in the restaurants changes season to season, sometimes with things we’ve never seen before. Often these are one-offs. Last year, for instance, we started to get celtuce from one of our growers. Celtuce...

food April 7, 2017

The best wines of autumn 2017

Lansdowne, 2016 pinot grigio, Adelaide Hills ($20) Classic pinot grigio pear and citrus notes, gently creamy texture and smart packaging – a sleek wine at an unassuming price, with very wide appeal. – Leanne Altmann, wine buyer, Supernormal and...

food April 1, 2017

Lemon posset with Chantilly cream

I was thinking this morning I felt like a bit of a cad presenting a recipe that is so effortless. Often, though, I get criticised more for complexity – so I thought, why not? I think it’s good to get away from contemporary desserts – gelatines,...

food March 25, 2017

Beef tartare, tarragon mayonnaise, fried anchovy

We are living through a vogue for steak tartare. Waiters don’t even ask anymore if you know what it is when you order it. I think this is probably my favourite way to eat steak in the summer and it’s good to see it around...