travel

travel September 15, 2018

Ponte City, Johannesburg

The Ponte City apartment tower in Johannesburg was built for high-flyers before becoming a violent slum ruled by gangsters. Its rebirth as respectable, affordable housing is a model of community renewal.

travel August 25, 2018

Anacapri, Italy

High above Capri’s busy Marina Grande, ornithologists use the spectacular vantage of the ruins of Castello Barbarossa to catch and observe migratory birds

travel August 4, 2018

Borneo’s Gomantong Caves

Within Borneo’s Gomantong Caves – slippery with teeming insects, bird droppings and guano from two million bats – fine dining is likely far from the mind. But overhead a perilous harvest ensues for the key ingredient of Chinese bird’s nest soup.

travel July 7, 2018

City of lost angels

In Los Angeles, everyone has a story and they’re eager to share it, but the enthusiasm to divulge personal details can have a traumatic side.

travel June 30, 2018

Canada’s Pukaskwa National Park, Lake Superior

On a journey around the Great Lakes to honour his mother, the author takes his cue from Anishinaabe artist Rebecca Belmore and turns his ear to the water to listen to his surrounds.

travel December 16, 2017

Rome’s Ghetto

As a regular visitor to Rome, the author  finds the gloss taken off her romantic notions of the city by the discovery of a relative’s brutal wartime death at the hands of the SS and local Fascists.

travel December 2, 2017

Lewes Bonfire

The rival bonfire societies of Lewes, East Sussex, vie to deliver the biggest spectacle of fireworks, costumed processions and burning effigies, in a working-class festival of rebellion.

travel November 18, 2017

Street art in Bosnia and Herzegovina

Street artists in Banja Luka are lobbying the EU to have the city in Bosnia and Herzegovina deemed the European Capital of Culture in 2024, to help the region overcome its association with civil war.

travel November 11, 2017

Manila American Cemetery

On a holiday to the Philippines, the author finds herself drawn to visit a memorial to wartime dead – here, the Manila American Cemetery – for reasons personal and universal.

travel November 4, 2017

London’s Archipelago restuarant

Amid the excess of Archipelago’s Empire-themed decor, a diner can test their appetite for the London restaurant’s insect dishes.

travel October 21, 2017

Port Arthur, Tasmania

Amid southern Tasmania’s prison ruins, the silence many find so serene is the same silence that broke dispirited convicts.